Brits champagneschrijver Michael Edwards is een bewonderaar van de blancs de blancs van Taittinger. Afgelopen april proefde hij in Richmond de release van de Comtes 2008. Importeur Oud Reuchlin & Boelen meldt dat de Comtes 2008 naar verwachting dit najaar naar Nederland komt. Een en ander is vertraagd door Covid 19. Lees hieronder de uitgebreide proefnotities van de Britse champagneschrijver Michael Edwards:
In the welcome return to the artisanal methods of their grandparents, I’m afraid that some Champagne producers may have overdone the use of oak, particularly in hot vintages like 2005 and 2015 , these years sharply affected
by Climate Change; the heat in several cases blurred the scented flavours of the wines. One great house – Taittinger -has always avoided this mistake. The story begins with a young man from Alsace- Lorraine, Pierre Taittinger,who served as a French officer under General de Castelnau at the Chateau de Marquetterie at Pierry, near Épernay during World War One. After the Armistice, Pierre stayed on in Champagne, and eventually was able to buy the property and its vineyards, while acquiring grands crus on the Montagne for his négociant House in Reims. But Pierre’s real love, his vision, was Chardonnay. Worth saying that’s in the 1920s, Blanc de Blancs champagnes barely existed, “just around four percent..{ of released All -Chardonnay cuvées}” as leading Dutch authority Gert Crum tells us in his fine- recent opus. Champagne the future uncorked (In NL Le reveil des terroirs 2017) And in Taittinger Comtes, this peerless Chardonnay expression still has only 5% fermentation in oak since 1989. Finesse, elegance, are the watchwords.
The 2008 growing season
Weather conditions played to the strength of the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru Chardonnays in a classic interplay between Oceanic and Continental meteorological influences: Winter cold, little rainfall; Spring mild, flowering fairly cool in early June; thereafter, fruit ripened slowly but evenly in high Summer. Harvest took place under a gently warm daytime sky and cool nights in a traditional time- sequence. 30 September- October 15. Long hang time for the grapes gave real potential for extra complexity. Perfect conditions for aromatic complexity in tune with freshness and precision.
Tasting 26 April Richmond upon Thames
Comtes 2008 – pure Grands Crus Chardonnay from Oger Le Mesnil Avize Cramant & Chouilly. Superb colour, daffodil yellow merging into shimmering Welsh gold,with a green fluorescent rim, becoming more intense after 30 minutes. Flow of lace-like elegant bubbles. Fresh, subtly ripe aromas in the citrus repertoire- agrumes grapefruit, lime and lemon but also apple blossom and peach. Highly sophisticated palate of perfect, richly balanced maturity including the complexity of model phenolic ripeness. Burgeoning hints of mint and acacia honey. Coup de Grace of toastiness from 5% oak fermentation. Dosage not revealed but could be anything from the edge of extra brut to brut ( 6 – 8/9 g/l) Near faultless. For me Comtes 2008,is the finest vintage of the decade. Brilliant restorative acids. Gastronomic, with roast turbot plainly cooked. Still young drink 2021 -2030 96 ++
Meanwhile, the 2006 is a lovely pleasure- filled treat; the 2007 more structured; the 2005 is a touch too big; but 2004 is another handsome Comtes if less complex than the wonderful 2008.
@Michael Edwards
Artikel is verschenen in WOFW
Taittinger Champagne wordt in Nederland geïmporteerd door Oud Reuchlin & Boelen.
Oud Reuchlin & Boelen is de belangrijkste wijnpartner voor horeca en top gastromie en onderdeel van het Franse Invivo, een van de grootste wijn producenten in Franrijk, waardoor Oud Reuchlin & Boelen een importeur/ distributeur is die daadwerkelijk wijn van eigen wijngaarden in de portfolio heeft.
Oud Reuchlin & Boelen is de officiële partner voor de prestigeuze ‘Prix Culinaire’, voor het eerst georganiseerd in 1967, door Claude Taittinger, als eerbetoon aan zijn vader Pierre Tattinger. Geïnteresseerde chefs kunnen meer info opvragen via info@orbwijn.nl. Inschrijven kan tot 1 oktober.
Middels de actie Help de Horeca, heeft ORB significante steun kunnen bieden aan horeca ondernemers.
